Discover the Joys of Winter Hiking

The Smoky Mountain Hiking Blog: Discover the Joys of Winter Hiking: Many hikers tend to run from the woods as soon as the first snow flakes begin to fall. However, winter is great time to hit the trail. Not only are the crowds gone, but many parks show off their true beauty after a fresh snowfall. With just a little more attention to detail beforehand, anyone can have a safe and enjoyable hike during the winter.

Although it might feel quite frigid at the trailhead, your body will begin generating plenty of heat after just 10 or 15 minutes of walking. The best thing you can do to keep the cold out is to dress in layers: a base layer that wicks moisture off your body, a fleece jacket for insulating warmth, and a shell to keep you dry and to keep the wind from penetrating your core. Most importantly, dressing in layers allows you to adjust your attire as you heat-up or cool-off. When dressing for a winter hike, always remember the adage: cotton kills! Never wear anything made of cotton while hiking in the backcountry. Once wet, cotton no longer insulates you from the cold. Moreover, it wicks heat away from your body and puts you at risk of becoming hypothermic.

Some people are prone to cold feet in the winter. One of the keys to keeping your feet warm is to make sure they stay dry. Wear a good pair of hiking socks, made of wool blends or synthetic fabrics, that wick moisture away from your skin, retain heat when wet, and dry faster if they become wet. I always keep an extra pair in my pack in case the ones I’m wearing do get wet. (Expert Advice: How to Choose Socks) You should also wear above-the-ankle hiking boots which help to keep snow away from your feet. You may want to consider wearing gaiters, especially if there are several inches of snow on the ground.

To round-out your winter apparel, don’t forget about a good pair of gloves, a ski cap and maybe even a balaclava.

If the snow is too deep in the mountains, consider hiking at lower elevations, or even wearing snowshoes. If you expect a lot of ice, especially in areas where there might be steep drop-offs, consider bringing crampons specifically made for hiking. These are sometimes referred to as traction devices, or in-step crampons, which you can either strap-on or slide onto your boots.

Trekking poles are another excellent choice for helping to maintain your balance on sections of trail with slick ice and snow.

After outfitting yourself with the proper winter gear, hikers will then need to focus on staying hydrated and properly fueled while out on the trail. Hiking in the cold, especially in snow, burns more calories. By some estimates, hikers can burn as much as 50% more calories when compared to similar distances and terrain in the summer. By not consuming enough calories while on the trail you become prone to getting cold faster. Make sure you bring plenty of high-energy snacks with you to munch on periodically throughout your hike. Watch out for foods that can freeze solid, such as some power bars. Or, instead of storing in your backpack, put some snacks inside your fleece jacket. Your body should generate enough heat to prevent them from freezing.

Although it may sound counter-intuitive, it can actually be easier to experience dehydration in the winter, versus hiking in the summer. Dehydration can occur faster in cold weather because the air is much drier. Moreover, dehydration can be dangerous because it can accelerate hypothermia and frostbite. Make sure you bring plenty of liquids with you, and drink often while on the trail.

If you’re storing water bottles in your backpack during a very cold day, you may need to insulate them to prevent them from freezing. An old wool sock will work in this case. Also, you may want to turn the bottle upside down to prevent the water from freezing at the neck. If you plan to be out for several hours, consider bringing a thermos containing a hot drink, or even soup.

Other winter hazards hikers need to be aware of include hiking in steep terrain that’s prone to avalanches, or a storm that covers the trail with fresh snow, thus making navigation difficult. You should always carry a topographical map and a compass with you in case you ever need help finding your way back to the trailhead if you were to become lost.

Other gear to bring with you includes a first aid kit, firestarter, waterproof matches, a pocket knife, an emergency blanket and maybe even a bivy sack.

Finally, let someone know where you’re going, when you’ll be back, and who to call if they don’t hear back from you at a specified time.

With a little care and preparation up front, anyone can discover the joys of winter hiking.


Jeff
Hiking in the Smokies

Vasque Men's Snowburban UltraDry Insulated Boot

New for 2012! The Vasque Snow Junkie insulated boot is ready for cold weather aerobic activities. Using Vasque’s UltraDry waterproofing system and lined with 200 grams of 3M Thinsulate insulation, the Snow Junkie is your go-to winter boot for snowshoeing, winter hiking and backpacking.

Made from a combination of waterproof leather and synthetic textiles, the upper of the Snowburban UltraDry boot is durable yet lightweight and a rubber toe cap and molded rubber heel yoke serve to further reinforce the boot and support your foot. The lace system of the Snowburban UltraDry boot allows for a secure fit during longer hikes and the low profile lace webbing over the foot slides easily in and out of a snowshoe binding while the metal eyelets at the ankle offer durability on off trail and deep snow excursions. A D-ring at the toe of the boot lets you quickly fasten gaiters down and keeps snow from bunching up under the toe of the gaiter.

Under foot you'll find a dual density, EVA midsole for lightweight cushioning as well as a TPU instep plate and textile forefoot plate for increased protection. Vasque's Perpetuum Last creates a good fit for steady, long distance hiking. Mid traction lugs help you keep your footing on crusty snow and frozen mud and a soft fleece collar at the inside of the ankle adds a touch of comfort and warmth.

Hiking In Snow At Higher Elevations

As you hike ever so higher hiking through the snow, you need to understand the added risks and problems with hiking in higher altitudes in the snow. You will find yourself needing to breathe deeper and more often to keep enough oxygen circulating to your muscles. Every breath has less oxygen, so you need more breaths. There are more special preparations for hiking in the snow as you go up higher in altitude:

Slower Pace - If you are not expecting the lack of oxygen, you will find yourself needing frequent rest stops to recover. But, by slowing your pace as you gain elevation, you will keep your body working without overexerting in the snow especially if it is deep snow.

Even Rhythm - Maintaining a breathing/stepping rhythm is even more important at higher elevations than lower down. It will help keep you from overexerting yourself.

Deep Breathing - when you first notice any breathlessness, start thinking about your breathing. Take deeper breaths and smaller steps until you have a sustainable pace again. On steeper sections, deliberately placing each foot and taking a breath may be the way to go.

Sunscreen is critical because the sun is more powerful higher up. Snow, light - colored rocks, cool temperature, and no shade above treeline also contribute to easy sun burns.

Sunglasses will help prevent squinting and headaches. Snowblindness and sunburned eyelids are real problems. Use side guards on your glasses for more protection.

Extra Clothes - long sleeves, long pants, hats, and gloves to protect from the sun, wind, and cold. Weather can change in a heartbeat, easily dropping more than 30 degrees in 1/2 hour or less.

Ignoring the risks of hiking at higher elevations with snowfall especially if snowfall is over 12 inches will ruin your day. If you're lucky, you'll just be wiped out, but there's a good chance you can get yourself in deep trouble.

Hillsound FreeSteps6 Traction Device

Designed and tested in Canada, the Hillsound FreeSteps6 is a traction device made to assist users so they can enjoy the great outdoors safely in snowy and icy conditions. Made of durable high-grade stainless steel, the Hillsound FreeSteps6 offers anti-slip traction for general winter activities such as city walking, trail running, light hiking, ice fishing, hunting, etc.

For more information about Hillsound products, please visit
http://hillsound.com/hillsound-category/crampons/

Rescue of Hiker Trapped by Hurricane Sandy for 3 Days in Snowy Mountains

56-year-old North Carolina man, Steve Ainsworth was airlifted from the Appalachian Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park this past Friday afternoon. The hiker had become stranded on Appalachian Trail as a result of Hurricane Sandy's massive snowstorm that dumped over 3 feet of snow in the higher elevations of the Smoky Mountains National Park early last week.

Steve was was doing what is called a flip - flop ( where you hike one section of the Appalachian Trail and the flip to the reverse side ) . He was hiking southern part of the AT when Sandy hit and started snowing heavily for almost 3 days making the hiker literally almost trapped. He said it took him almost 8 hours to hike just one mile . He had encountered snow drifts over 5 feet high while hiking that distance . His feet was frozen , food and water almost out , he was forced to call 911 when he got a signal .

The rangers had tried to hike up to get him but they too had also hit the snow wall that Steve had run into only being able to hike a mile in many hours . Snow was just more than anyone could handle especially when your trying to hike through snow as tall as you are ! So on friday November 2 nd they contacted Tennessee Highway Patrol was called in for a air rescue . This is a video below of the rescue that they filmed getting Steve out of all that snow .

MSR Evo Ascent Snowshoes

The MSR Evo Ascent snowshoe provides legendary dependability and all terrain performance. As its name might suggest, it is part of the MSR Ascent series of snowshoes which feature our most secure bindings, unrivaled traction, and modular floatation. Traction is the cornerstone of performance in any snowshoe and at MSR we take traction very seriously. In the Evo Ascent snowshoe traction is achieved by have a unibody frame which is a fully molded frame on the snowshoe with two parallel integrated traction blades attached to the bottom of the shoe. They have a very aggressive edge profile which will cut into the snow and provide you traction in all directions. Three straps come across the front of your boot to provide a very secure fit.

 

One strap across the back locks the heel in place and gives you an extremely secure binding. These straps will not absorb water so they are not going to freeze so you can use them in the coldest temperatures and they can be operated very simply with a gloved or mittened hand. The free floating pivoting binding allows for a very normal gate without allows the binding to over rotate. The Evo Ascent incorporates a heel lift mechanism called a televator. The idea behind the televator is to lift the heel so that you are in better position to be more stable and provide better traction on that ascent, as well as minimizing calf strain by allowing your calf to only have to move a portion of the distance that it would normally have to move.

 

 At MSR we feel that it is important to use the smallest snowshoe deck size possible. The reason for that is because it provides you with more agility and greater efficiency when walking on packed powder trails which is really where we end up most of the time. There are those situations where we end up in really fluffy light powder and in those situations you need more surface area. Fortunately with the MSR Evo Ascent you can incorporate a modular tail assembly, which is sold separately, so you can increase the surface area on the shoe for more floatation in that deeper powder.

Kahtoola MICROSpikes Traction System

We're here today taking a look at the Kahtoola MICROspikes. Kahtoola MICROspikes are comprised of an elastomer rubber harness that fits around your footwear so it doesn't need any harnesses or straps. This elastomer harness can stretch to fit all kinds of different footwear – everything from heavy insulated winter boots, standard regular hiking boots, down to even trail running shoes. Let's take a look at how easy it is to put the MICROspikes on. Because I'm not sitting in a chair here, I've already started the front.

 

The front of the MICROspike is clearly labeled. There is no left or right on the MICROspike, so really what you do is just loop it over the front of the shoe. Make sure to line up that bail bar in the center of the toe. And then in the back of the MICROspike you've got a nice pull-tab. So you can just pull it right up over and around the shoe, everything will seat right in. And you're ready to go. You may need to make a couple of small adjustments, maybe slide the back up or down a little bit and make sure it's fitting comfortably on your piece of footwear. MICROspikes are available in both red and black and their sizes run from Extra Small, which will cover youth sizes 1-4 all the way up to an Extra Large which will cover a men's size 14-16 in a shoe. It's a little bit smaller if you're using a very big boot. The Extra Large will cover an 11-13.5. Of course one of the great things about MICROspikes is how small they pack up. So you can pop them in your pack for anytime that you think you may need some more traction out on the trail.

 

Kahtoola also sells a small tote sack as an accessory. This can be purchased separately to store your MICROspikes in your pack. The teeth of the MICROspikes consist of a 3/8 inch stainless steel spike and chain. What's nice about this system is that none of these teeth are locked into a static position, so they can have kind of a camming action when they bite into ice and snow. While we're taking a look at the spikes and the chain, it's important to take a look at this other feature here in the front which is the bail bar. This bail bar keeps these chains together and it keeps your foot from blowing out the front of the MICROspike when you're descending on a slope.

Common Fire-Starting Methods

Even if you find yourself without matches while hiking or backpacking, there are plenty of ways to start a fire without them. Below are a few of the most common methods of starting a campfire without the help of matches or a lighter.

 Flint and steel:
 Using flint and steel is one of the most primitive ways of starting a fire. There are multiple ways of using it and making your own kit. For an in-depth look, see CampfireDude’s Flint and Steel article.

Lenses (magnifying glass or eyeglasses):
 If it is a sunny day, angle your lens toward the sun. Put a ball of tinder under the lens as you concentrate the light into the smallest area possible. If you add water to the lens you will be able to intensify the beam.

Steel wool and batteries:
With a nine-volt battery and a strip of steel wool, simply touch the contacts of the battery to the wool. Blow on it gently to encourage flames and add it to your tinder.

Household items:

 Common items that can be found at home can be used as a quick and easy fire starter. Items include clothes dryer lint (which is extremely lightweight), candles, insect repellents and alcohol hand sanitizers.

Putting Out The Camfire :

Even if you may think your fire is completely out or can burn itself out, wind can come up and reignite the embers and make the fire start up again. As a safety precaution, drown the campfire with water or dirt once you are finished. Stir the fire’s remains to uncover any hot embers and throw on more water or dirt. Remember, only you can prevent wildfires!

The Story Of Atti ( My Hiking Buddy )

I have had a lot of people ask about my hiking buddy who rides in the back of my backpack on our hikes through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Many hikers we meet think that Atti is a duck but she is actually a platypus. A Webkinz  ( which she is a Google on the Webkinz Site ) that my girls got me one day for my Birthday


Well the story goes like this :

My Daughters (who are twins ) which were at the time this all began was right at 6 years old . I had got them both a google for part of their Christmas presents . One was a white one and the other was a pink one . One day after Christmas it was raining and i started playing with their Googles and was making them talk to them . We all laughed and had a lots of fun but little did i know that they had took a saved their own money and bought me my very own for my birthday . Thus Atti arrived on the scene with me ! So like most adults I thought it was so cute that my daughters had took their own money to get me my very own Google but Atti just sat on my bed like most stuff animals do except my daughters had different plans for Atti . I was going on a over night hike with a couple of buddies that I hike with all the time in the Great Smoky Mountains but this one time they had to both cancel on me but I was already off and I was going anyways . Then my daughters heard that I was going by myself and they got scared that a bear was going to get me while I was hiking in the mountains . So they put Atti in my backpack and told me that I had to take her that she would protect me from any bears . I laughed and my wife laughed even harder and asked if I was going to take her with me and I said like any daddy that loves their daughters with all their hearts I said yes . So that they knew that she actually went with me I took pictures of her all on the trail . And Atti has been with me every since we have hiked all over the Great Smoky Mountains National Park , Cherokee National Forest , Nantahala and Pisqah Forest .

 One time that I went hiking without her and it was just a short hike at Baskins Falls . I was crossing over a stream going up to the cemetery and hit some black ice on the back side of the rock and i fell and broke two ribs. Since then she has always been with me on every hike even the short ones ! She has become my hiking buddy that is always with me no matter what . I even made her a raincoat that she wears when it rains. Over all this time she has become a little celebrity . She has probably had her picture taken over 100 times and from people all over the world from Russia to Australia that had come to the Great Smoky Mountains to hike and enjoy the great outdoors. Now my daughters are both 17 and tell me that I can leave Atti at home and I say never ever will I leave her at home now !

Atti at Rocky Top on way to Thunderhead Mountain

Atti at the top of Chimney Tops

Atti at Gregory Bald

Atti just hanging around at Mt.LeConte

Atti hiking with me Curry Mountain

Atti at Mt.LeConte in the winter snow

Take a Hike (in every National Park)

The Smoky Mountain Hiking Blog: Take a Hike (in every National Park): Many individuals have made it their goal to hike every trail within a national park. For those achieving that goal in the Great Smoky Mountains, for example, they earn the right to become a member of the exclusive 900 Miler Club.Even more ambitious are those that seek to hike every trail in a national park over the course of just one year. In 2011, Montana resident Jake Bramante became the first person ever to hike all 734 miles of trails in Glacier National Park in only one year.And then there’s Donna and Mike Guthrie, who have taken it upon themselves to hike at least one trail in every national park in the United States. They plan to achieve this goal by 2016, in conjunction with the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service, as well as their 70th birthdays. If you consider the logistics of reaching all 58 national parks – from the Gates of the Arctic in Alaska, to the Everglades in Florida – the travel alone is an enormous undertaking.The Colorado Springs couple set their ambitious goal in late 2009 as a way of seeing more of the country. To date, the Guthrie’s have already been to 32 parks, including a winter excursion to Yellowstone earlier this month. They’ve also seen some of the lesser-known parks such as Cuyahoga Valley in Ohio, and Dry Tortugas in Florida. However, some of their favorites so far have been Crater Lake in Oregon, and Yosemite in California.

How To Choose Trekking Poles

Two sticks are better than one on the trail. Using a pair of hiking poles or trekking poles gives you balance and takes more stress off the lower body joints. The poles are designed to provide extra stability and to spread the load on your legs and on your arms. You end up in better shape since the poles burn additional calories. The grips and straps are designed so you can push down on them to assist yourself on the trail, but also for quick release if the pole gets stuck between rocks or roots. Always try to use the hiking poles in a store or use a demo model outdoors if it is at all possible.
 What type of grip?There are many types of grips: Rubber, Cork, Plastic and a new Foam material. Plastic is the least expensive and not very practical or efficient. Rubber is more expensive than the plastic grip and is efficient. The rubber grip will be a little colder than the cork grip, more tiring and will become slippery due to sweaty hands. The cork grip is the most efficient, warmer, not slippery, is very comfortable and is the most expensive. Try all types of grips to determine which grip is the best for you. Some hiking poles have an extra section for the grip underneath the grip so that you can shorten the length of the poles by just gripping the poles below the grip (so you don't have to shorten the poles each time).
 What angle for the grip?Most of the hiking poles are straight, but some have a grip that has an angle of about 15 degrees. The angled grip is supposed to help your wrist from getting tired and overused since your wrist does not go back and forth when hiking. I have not used the angled grip so I do not have an opinion on that type of model. The straight grips are the most popular (and less expensive), but try them both to see if the angled pole is right for you.
 What type of strap and grip?Grip and strap designs differ for the type of activity you are doing (fitness walking or hiking). Select the grip and strap to match your activity. Check to make sure that the strap is easily adjusted, even with heavy gloves on. You don't want to have to remove your gloves on a very cold day to start adjusting your straps. A quick-release mechanism for the strap is very useful for emergencies.
 Adjustable or non-adjustable height poles?If you are using your hiking poles for hiking and not for a walk in the park, your poles must be adjustable. If you are not sharing your poles with anyone and the walks are flat, then you can use the non-adjustable height poles. Adjustable hiking poles either have 2 or 3 adjustable sections. The 3 section hiking poles collapse into a smaller length (good for traveling and storing in your backpack). Each manufacturer has a unique type of mechanism to adjust the height of the hiking pole. Take the pole apart and look at how the locking device functions. Make sure you can adjust the length of the hiking poles with your heavy gloves on if you need to when it is cold outside. If you want to be safe, purchase an extra locking mechanism for safety reasons when you are using your poles.
 Anti-shock or no shock system?When the pole hits the ground, the anti-shock system in the pole can reduce the shock. Some poles actually use a spring in each pole to act as shock absorber. The anti-shock system will weigh more, so if weight is a factor, choose the poles that have no shocks. But the anti-shock system can increase your comfort in using the poles. Make sure the poles that you choose can turn the shocks on or off.
 The tips and baskets?There are usually at least 2 or 3 types of baskets for hiking poles: smaller baskets for hiking on dirt, sand, rocks, etc., a large baskets for snow and the largest basket for deep powder snow. The larger baskets will keep the hiking poles from sinking deeply in the snow. There is usually a carbide tip on the hiking pole. Make sure the tip can be replaced by you if it is broken accidentally. Usually there will also be rubber tips available to place over the carbide tip if you just want to go for a walk on the sidewalk or on pavement. Make sure the baskets can be changed, too.
 

How to Choose Hiking & Trekking Poles - Courtesy of Trails.com

Advantages of Using Trekking Poles

•They provide better balance and footing.

•On downhill hikes especially, they decrease the amount of stress on your legs and joints.

•On uphill climbs, poles transfer some of your weight to your shoulders, arms and back, which can reduce leg fatigue and add thrust to your ascents.

•They make crossing streams, loose rocks and slippery surfaces such as ice and snow patches easier and safer.

•They help you establish a walking rhythm.

•They can push back overhanging vegetation from the trail and probe soggy terrain for holes and boggy spots.

Trekking poles are most helpful to those with weak or damaged knees or ankles, particularly when going downhill, because the poles absorb some of the impact that your body would normally sustain. According to a 1999 study in The Journal of Sports Medicine, trekking poles can reduce compressive force on the knees by up to 25%. This translates into literally tons of weight that your body will not have to support during the course of a regular hike.

It should be noted that using trekking poles will not decrease your overall energy expenditure since you'll be using your arms more than you would when walking without poles. They do, however, help distribute your energy usage in a way that can help your hiking endurance.

Types of Trekking Poles :

Antishock poles: These offer internal springs that absorb shock when you walk downhill. With most poles, this feature can be turned off when it's not needed such as when you're walking uphill. The antishock feature is recommended if you have weak or damaged ankles, knees or hips. It adds a bit to the cost of the poles.

Standard poles: These do not have the antishock feature and are lighter and less expensive as a result. While they don't absorb as much impact as antishock poles when going downhill, they do provide a similar level of balance and support.

Compact or women's poles: These are shorter and have smaller grips for hikers with smaller hands. They are easier to swing because they weigh less and are also simpler to pack. Youth poles for kids are also available.

Hiking staff: Sometimes called a walking staff or travel staff, this is a single pole that's most effective when used on relatively flat terrain and with little or no load on your back. Hiking staffs are adjustable and some include the antishock feature. They may also include a built-in camera mount under the handle that can be used as a monopod.

Nordic walking poles: Long established in Europe, Nordic walking is gradually becoming popular in the U.S., too. It's a social activity that offers a total body workout. Nordic walking poles are a modified version of trekking poles. REI does not currently carry poles designed for Nordic walking.

Hike to Spence Field via Leads Cove

The shortest hike to Spence Field is via the Lead Cove Trail. The trail name is supposedly derived from the lead ore that was extracted here in the 1800s.

Towards the beginning of this hike you'll pass an old homestead site on the left. The trail follows along the Sugar Cove Prong for roughly three-quarters of a mile before branching off and climbing steeply up to the Bote Mountain Trail. At 1.8 miles the trail dead-ends into the Bote Mountain Trail. You will have already climbed nearly 1300 feet at this point. To continue on to Spence Field, turn right at this junction.
As you ascend the Bote Mountain Trail you'll be hiking through a fairly open pine-oak forest, with intermittent views of Defeat Ridge towards the left.
At roughly 3 miles the Anthony Creek Trail branches off to the right. Continue going straight here.

As you continue climbing the Bote Mountain Trail, you'll begin walking through a long stretch of trail where the rhododendron forms a tunnel over the trail. You'll also notice that the trail has sunk a couple of feet below the ground on either side of the trail. My guess is that this is a result of a combination of erosion, and the trampling of the sheep and cattle that were driven to and from Spence Field prior to the establishment of the national park.

At roughly 4.7 miles you'll reach the Appalachian Trail, and Spence Field. If you turn right at this junction you’ll pass through a series of small grassy meadows. These are pleasant meadows, but nothing compared to what you'll find on the other side of the junction.

If visibility is good you'll have outstanding views of the North Carolina side of the Smokies. And if you're there in June, you'll have one of the most spectacular displays of mountain laurel found just about anywhere. The hillsides and meadows are literally covered in the white and soft pink flowers from this member of the heath family.
  
You'll only need to walk 100 yards or so beyond the junction to find a great spot to enjoy a picnic lunch, or just soak in the grand scenery.

Spence Field is named after James Spence who built a cabin in this area in 1830. The History of the Grassy Balds in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, an online book on the Park website, states that neither Russell or Spence Field are natural grassy balds, but were actually cleared by settlers for the purposes of grazing sheep and cattle.  

Hiking to Spence Field via Leads Cove

Beautiful sunny day to hike to Spence Field Shelter

Just About There !

Spence Field

Mountain Laurel

Dogwoods at Spence Field

Spence Field Shelter

Atti at Spence Field Shelter

Robin making it's home at Spence Field Shelter

History Of The Great Smoky Mountains

The Great Smoky Mountains are among the highest peaks in the Appalachian mountain range, yet they are rounder and lower in elevation than younger mountain chains such as the Rocky Mountains. How they came to be this way is a story that began almost one billion years ago.Â

The Great Smoky Mountains are among the highest peaks in the Appalachian mountain range, yet they are rounder and lower in elevation than younger mountain chains such as the Rocky Mountains. How they came to be this way is a story that began almost one billion years ago.

An ancient sea flooded what is now the eastern United States, submerging the remnants of an old mountain range. The sea slowly deposited layers and layers of sediment onto the ocean floor. The intense pressure of thousands of feet of sediment compressed these layers into metamorphic rock. Almost 300 million years ago, the sea added yet another layer of limestone sediment that was composed of fossilized marine animals and shells. The stage was set for the formation of the Appalachian Mountains.

As a result of the eons-old shifting of the earth's tectonic plates (large sections of the earth's crust), Africa and North America collided about 250 million years ago. This caused the older, underlying layer of metamorphic rock to tilt upward and slide over the younger limestone rock, slowly creating a towering mountain range, the Appalachians. The older rocks, known as the Ocoee Series, now compose most of the Great Smoky Mountains. Charlies Bunion, Sawteeth and Chimney Tops are dramatic examples of how the rock layers tilted and buckled to form steep cliffs and pinnacles. In Cades Cove, erosion of the overlying metamorphic rock reveals the limestone layer beneath.

During the ice ages, massive boulders were created by alternating freezing and thawing of the rock. You can see boulder fields on the Cove Hardwood, Noah "Bud" Ogle and Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trails.

The Smokies originally looked more like the Himalayas than the rounded mountains we see today. The relentless erosive force of water has sculpted their present-day appearance. Water runoff has also helped to carve the alternating pattern of V-shaped valleys and steep ridges. Landslides caused by a torrential downpour in 1951 created the large V-slash on Mount LeConte, and rock slides in 1984 briefly closed Newfound Gap Road. As you explore the park, look for how water continues to sculpt the land.

Human History

Evidence of human habitation here goes back at least 11,000 years. They were believed to have been a breakaway group of Iroquois, later to be called Cherokee, who had moved south from Iroquoian lands in New England. The Cherokee Nation stretched from the Ohio River into South Carolina and consisted of seven clans. The Eastern Band of the Cherokee lived (and continue to live) in this sacred ancestral home of the Cherokee Nation.

The Cherokee enjoyed a settled, sophisticated agriculture-based life. Their towns of up to 50 log-and-mud huts were grouped around the town square and the Council House, a large, seven-sided (for the seven clans), dome-shaped building. Public meetings and religious ceremonies were held here. They first encountered Europeans in 1540, when Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto led an expedition through Cherokee territory.

In the late 18th century, Scotch-Irish, German, English and other settlers arrived in significant numbers. The Cherokee were friendly at first, but fought with settlers when provoked. They battled Carolina settlers in the 1760s but eventually withdrew to the Blue Ridge Mountains.
To come to terms with the powerful newcomers, the Cherokee Nation attempted to make treaties and to adapt to European customs. They adopted a written legal code in 1808 and instituted a supreme court two years later. Sequoyah, a Cherokee silversmith, created an alphabet for the Cherokee language and in the space of two years, nearly all of his people could read and write the language. But theirs was a losing cause. The discovery of gold in northern Georgia in 1828 sounded the death knell for the Cherokee Nation.

In 1830, President Andrew Jackson signed the Removal Act, calling for the relocation of all native peoples east of the Mississippi River to Indian Territory, now Oklahoma. The Cherokee appealed their case to the Supreme Court and Chief Justice Marshall ruled in their favor. President Jackson, however, disregarded the Supreme Court decree in the one instance in American history when a U.S. president overtly ignored a Supreme Court decision.

In 1838, the U.S. government forced some 13,000 Cherokee to march to Oklahoma along what has become known as the Trail of Tears. About one-third of the Cherokee died en route of malnutrition and disease. Altogether, about 100,000 natives, including Cherokee, Seminole, Chickasaw and Choctaw survived the journey.

A handful of Cherokee disobeyed the government edict, however. Hiding out in the hills between Clingmans Dome and Mount Guyot, they managed to survive. In 1889, the 56,000-acre Qualla Indian Reservation was chartered with a population of about 1,000 people. Approximately 10,500 of their descendants now live on the reservation, which is located along the park's southern boundary.

Like the Cherokee, pioneers who settled in the Smokies in the 18th and 19th centuries coveted the fertile valleys. Land soon became scarce. Later arrivals made their homesteads along steep slopes.
Logging began slowly, but by the time it ran its course, it had radically changed the land and the life of the people. Timber, of course, was vital to the early pioneers. They used it for homes, furniture, fences and fuel. They only began cutting it for cash in the mid-19th century. This had little noticeable effect on the forest, however, because men and animals could only carry so much.
Not so by the turn of the century. Technological advances and the eastern United States' need for lumber nearly eliminated all the southern Appalachian forests. Railroads were the key to the companies' large-scale logging operations. Railroad tracks reaching deep into the mountains made the timber readily available. Steam-powered equipment such as skidders and log loaders also contributed to cost-effective tree removal.

Some 15 company towns were constructed in what is now the park, along with a like number of sawmills. Mountain people who had once plowed fields and slopped hogs began to cut trees and saw logs for a living, abandoning their farms. They were attracted to logging by the promise of security and the stability of a steady paycheck.

Their security was short-lived, however. By the 1930s, the lumber companies had logged all but the most inaccessible areas and were casting their sights to richer pickings out West. Some of the mountain people returned to farming while others left to seek jobs in mines, textile mills and automobile factories.

National Park Status

In 1904, a librarian from St. Louis named Horace Kephart came to the Smokies for a respite to restore his health. Kephart found that large-scale logging was decimating the land and disrupting the lives of the people. As the years progressed, he promoted preserving the Smokies as a national park. In the 1920s, prominent Knoxville residents took up the cause and formed a citizens' organization.

The NPS was looking for park sites in the East after having established parks in the West. Founded in 1916, the young agency hoped to generate further public support for national parks with a park closer to the majority of the nation's population. Along with private efforts, the NPS promoted the idea of a national park in the Smokies.

The states of Tennessee and North Carolina, and countless citizens responded by giving millions of dollars to purchase parkland. The federal government was reluctant to buy land for parks; national parks in the West had been formed from land it had already owned. Eventually, it did contribute $2 million. Coupled with John D. Rockefeller, Jr.'s donation of $5 million, the NPS reached its goal.

Lumber companies were bought out in agreements that phased out operations over several years and some people living within the proposed park boundaries were allowed lifetime residency rights. Most people moved, and consequently were paid more for their land. On June 15, 1934, Great Smoky Mountains National Park was officially established, preserving the land for generations to come. 

Loop Hikes In The Great Smoky Mountains ( GSMNP )

Tennessee Side Loop Hikes

Cucumber Gap / Little River Trail
Trailhead: Elkmont
Length: 5.6 miles
Trail Features: Historic Elkmont cottages, wildflowers, hike along stream

Finley Cane / Bote Mountain / Lead Cove
Trailhead: Laurel Creek Road (about 5.5 miles from the Townsend "Y"
Length: 7 miles
Trail Features: Quiet walk in woods, old homestead sites and sporadic views of surrounding mountains



Rich Mountain Loop
Trailhead: Main Cades Cove parking area
Length: 8.5 miles
Trail Features: John Oliver cabin, wildflowers, sporadic views of Cades Cove and Tuckaleechee Cove

Deep Creek/Indian Creek/Deep Creek Loop Trailhead: Deep Creek
Length: 4.6 miles
Trail Features: Waterfalls and wildflowers

Mt. Cammerer Fire Tower

Smokemont Loop Trail / Bradley Fork
Trailhead: Smokemont Campground
Length: 6.2 miles
Trail Features: Wildflowers and a walk along the Bradley Fork

Russell Field / Spence Field
Trailhead: Anthony Creek Trailhead in the Cades Cove Picnic Area Length: 13.3 miles
Trail Features: Panoramic views from Spence Field, abundant mountain laurel

Wet Bottom / Cooper Road / Hatcher Mountain / Abrams Falls
Trailhead: Cades Cove Visitor Center
Length: 13.4 miles
Trail Features: Abrams Falls, solitude (other than the section to the falls)

Rainbow Falls / Mt. LeConte / Bullhead
Trailhead: Cherokee Orchard Loop
Length: 14.1 miles
Trail Features: Spectacular views from the summit of Mt. LeConte, Rainbow Falls highest falls in park

Lower Mt. Cammerer /Appalachian Trail / Low Gap
Trailhead: Cosby Campground
Length: 15.5 miles
Trail Features: Spectacular views, Historic Mt. Cammerer Fire Tower


North Carolina Side Loop Hikes

Goldmine Loop Trail
Trailhead: Lakeshore Drive Tunnel
Length: 3.8 miles
Trail Features: Fontana Lake, remains of an old home site
Twentymile Trail / Twentymile Loop / Wolf Ridge
Trailhead: Twentmile (west of Fontana Village)
Length: 7.6 miles
Trail Features: Mountain streams and a small waterfall

Caldwell Fork / Boogerman Trail
Trailhead: Cataloochee Campground
Length: 7.4 miles
Trail Features: Old growth forest, picturesque streams and falls, and the remains of early settler's home sites

Shuckstack Fire Tower

Cooper Creek / Deeplow Gap / Thomas Divide / Mingus Creek
Trailhead: Cooper Creek Trailhead (north of Ela, NC)
Length: 11.1 miles
Trail Features: Waterfalls and sporadic views of surrounding mountains

Appalachian Trail / Shuckstack / Lost Cove / Lakeshore Trail
Trailhead: Fontana Dam
Length: 12 miles
Trail Features: Shuckstack Fire Tower, spectacular views of Fontana Lake, remnants of old home sites

Hemphill Bald / Caldwell Fork / Rough Fork
Trailhead: Polls Gap (near Balsam Mountain Campground)
Length: 13.7 miles
Trail Features: Outstanding views of the Cataloochee Valley

Facts about The Great Smoky Mountain National Park ( GSMNP )

Formed roughly 200-300 million years ago, the Great Smoky Mountains are among the oldest mountains in the world. Today, the park bearing the name of these mountains encompasses more than 541,000 acres (more than 800 + square miles). Just over half of this landmass lies within the state of North Carolina, with the rest in Tennessee.
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park receives more than 9.5 million visitors a year, making it the most visited national park in the country. The Grand Canyon, the second most visited national park, receives roughly 4.4 million visitors per year!

June, July, August and October are the most popular months for visitors. The park sees more than a million visitors during each of these months.
Although the Smokies may seem overcrowded with these kinds of numbers, it's still easy to escape civilization. The park boasts more than 800 miles of trails, including roughly 74.5 miles of the Appalachian Trail which runs along the crest of the Smokies. Yes, there are a few trails with extreme crowds during the summer, but these are usually the shorter trails near Gatlinburg, Cades Cove or along Newfound Gap Road. Go to the more remote sections of the park, or take a longer trail, and you're likely to find virtual solitude.

Hikers will find that trails in the Smokies offer a great amount of diversity. For one, elevation in the park ranges from 840 feet at the mouth of Abrams Creek on the western edge of the park, to 6643 feet at the summit of Clingmans Dome. There are also more than 2100 miles of streams in the park, making for numerous fishing opportunities, picnic spots, or even a swimming hole during a hot summer afternoon.

The Smokies are home to more than 1600 species of flowering plants. During the spring, wildflowers explode during the brief window prior to trees leafing out and shading the forest floor (from about mid-April thru mid-May). During the early summer period (from about mid-June to mid-July), awesome displays of mountain laurel, rhododendron, flame azalea, and other heath family shrub flowers can be enjoyed, especially on the higher elevation balds. For Catawba rhododendron, take the relatively short hike to Andrews Bald. Although somewhat of a long trek, hikers going to Gregory Bald will be amply rewarded by the exceptional displays of flame azalea at the summit. Finally, Spence Field is by far the best place for mountain laurel.
 
There are 66 species of mammals, including black bears, elk, fox, bobcats, coyotes, and river otter that live within the park borders. Based on a study conducted in 2006, biologists estimate that approximately 1,500 black bears live in the park, a density of approximately two bears per square mile. This National Park link will provide you with a better understanding of bear behavior and what to do if you see one on the trail.
 
Additionally, there are over 245 varieties of birds, 83 native fish species, and more than 80 types of reptiles and amphibians (data is from the All Taxa Biodiversity Inventory).

Other key facts about Great Smoky Mountains National Park:

* Great Smoky Mountains National Park was established in 1934.

* The Great Smoky Mountains is one of the only major national parks that doesn't charge an entrance fee.
* There are three visitors centers located within the park: Sugarlands (Gatlinburg), Cades Cove, and Oconaluftee (Cherokee, NC).
* There are 10 campgrounds with a total of 1000 sites within the park boundaries. Additionally, there are more than 100 backcountry campsites, including shelters.

* The park maintains 78 historic structures located in five historic districts.

* The park was designated as an International Biosphere Reserve by the United Nations on October 26, 1976. It was also designated a World Heritage Site on December 6, 1983.

* In the Smokies, the average annual rainfall varies from approximately 55 inches in the valleys, to over 85 inches on some peaks, more than anywhere else in the country except the Pacific Northwest. During the wettest years, over eight feet of rain can fall in the high country.

Tips For Hiking Alone

Know the area. People take for granted how much they know about the natural environment in which they live. Odds are, you can identify the poisonous vegetation in your area, are familiar with what kinds of wild animals you might run into, and know how extreme the temperatures can get. So if you’re going to start hiking by yourself, it’s best to do so near your hometown. Even better, try a place you’ve visited before with friends. You’ll be surprised at how different things look on your own.

Tell someone of your whereabouts. Be sure to check in with a friend about where you’re going, and when you plan on getting home.  (Don’t forget to call them when you get back – you don’t want to leave them worrying, do you?) In case something does happen (of course it won’t, but if it does) someone will know right away that you’re missing. Once you’ve told someone where you’re headed, stick to that plan! No changing your mind at the last minute and taking a different trail.You want everyone to have an accurate idea of where you are, so that help can find you if you need it.

Check in at the ranger station. This is always a good idea. Whenever you go on a hike, be sure to stop by the ranger’s station. Give them your name, and let them know that you’ll be hiking alone. Tell them that you’ll check in again on your way out.  (Once again, don’t forget to do so!) Be sure to clear your hiking route with the park rangers – they will know which trails are open, and which are the best (and safest) for solo hikers.

Read the weather report. I near the Great Smoky Mountains , where we have a saying: If you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes. I’ve literally seen a sky go from sunny and cloudless to dark and hailing in about 15 minutes. Fortunately, I was inside at the time. But if you’re hiking and the weather turns foul, odds are you won’t have time to get yourself back to your vehicle or to a ranger station without getting soaked first. So check the weather report before you leave, and pay attention to the sky – and your fellow hikers. If everyone else is headed back to their cars, that’s a sign that you should, too.

Choose a busy trail. Trails that see lots of foot traffic are better-maintained and safer than more secluded ones. Plus you’re bound to run into a few other explorers, so if you need it, help will just be a few shouts away. Don’t worry that your alone-time will be interrupted – even on popular trails, you might pass a lot of people, but I can guarantee that few will stop to chat – after all, they’re hiking.

Know your limitations. If you rarely work out and get winded walking to the mailbox and back, then maybe you shouldn’t commit to a seven-mile hike. Err on the side of caution and remember that fatigue can creep up on you. Try a neighborhood hike first, to see what you’re able to do and how quick your pace is. This will better help you gauge your abilities (and your time) when you go out alone in the woods.

Stick to the path. It seems like most disastrous hiking stories begin when someone willingly takes a wrong turn. However tempting it might be, don’t wander off the trail and into the woods. Your trampling could cause a lot of damage to plant and animal life. Even worse, you could step onto unstable ground (think rock slides or avalanches). Not only is going off-trail dangerous (because, let’s face it, you will get lost), it’s also illegal in many national parks.

Bring supplies. Always bring the following with you: a sweater, a snack, a map, a first-aid kit, and more water than you think you’ll need. When you’re alone, you won’t have anyone else to mooch off of. And convenience stores aren’t exactly easy to come by when you’re in the middle of the woods. Be responsible: stay hydrated, keep your blood-sugar up, and take care not to get too cold or too over-heated. Since you’re on your own, it’s up to you to take care of yourself.

Make sure your vehicle is up to it. There’s nothing worse than returning from a hike to the comfort of your vehicle to find the engine is dead. Or worse still, not getting to your hike at all because your car died on the way. And since a lot of hiking areas are away from the city, on rural roads that don’t see a lot of traffic, you could be in a lot of trouble if your car breaks down. So make sure that your vehicle is up to the task – whether it’s dirt roads or highway driving – and will get you where you need to go and back home again, safely.

Gear List For Winter Hikes

Synthetic Lightweight Base Layer: Worn not packed; Bottoms & Tops, Zip T Neck for top
Synthetic Liner Gloves: Wear one; bring one or two
Synthetic Liner Socks: Wear one pair
Vapor Barrier Socks: Only worn if temps are going to stay below 15 or so
Socks: I use a very heavy wool sock
Boots: Gore-Tex Boots will be fine with good pair of wool socks as long as snow is not over 12 inches
Gaiters or Super Gaiters: If hiking in snow these are a must
Synthetic Mittens: Mid weight; Depending on weather, wear one and bring one or two
Waterproof Outer Mittens:For heavy snow days
Fleece Vest: I generally use a "Wind Block" vest
Fleece Jacket: I generally use a 300 weight Jacket
Down Jacket: Carried on longer or colder trips for rest stops and for emergencies
Waterproof/Breathable Wind/Rain Shell: For when it starts snowing hard
Waterproof/Breathable Wind/Rain Pants: With full side zips
Fleece Hat: I wear a hat that is fleece lined, nylon outer, with ear flaps
Pack: Short hikes; 2000 cubic inch. Longer hikes; 3050 cubic inch
Water: Two to three liters in wide mouth nalgene bottles
Bivy Sack:Always carry this incase the unexpected happens
First Aid Kit: For sprines or cuts from fall on the ice
Whistle:Not just for bears this whistle could save your live if you fal on ice or slip on ice and fall over edge on the trail
Pack Cover:For heavy rain or snow
Foam Pad: Or a portion of one  
Knife: Personally I carry the Bear Grylls knife with the fire starter which is a really nice knife .
Head Lamp: With extra batteries
Compass: Incase GPS goes down or batteries die
Map: Always have a back up ... a map will never fail you
Trail Description: Generally copied from the AMC White Mountain Guide
Bandanna: Two or three for a multitude of uses
Snow shoes: For Hikes the snow is over 8 - 12 inches
Ice Ax: Extremely rare that I bother to carry one but I do keep it on the list
Crampons:A must for winter hikes especially on higher elevations
Balaclava:For winds of 15 plus MPH
Altimeter: Useful for judging where I am!
Thermos: IF it's brought it will have either hot soup or cocoa in it
Sunglasses: Prevents Snow Blindness
Goggles: Essential in extreme cold or high wind
Large Trash Bag:
Trekking Poles:Keeps you from slipping on the ice
Camera: I use a digital camera and I put a spare set of batteries in my pocket to keep them warm
* Notice you should carry what your comfortable with and not what someone tells you this is just my list and my suggestions your needs and others may vary from hike to hike due to conditions of trails or due to weather .This is what i would call a good base list feel free to comment or add ideas to make us all better and safer hikers .

Emergency Gear You Might Need On A Winter Hike

Emergency Gear: Ok, here's another category that is quite varied from one hiker to the next so I'll give you my idea of what "emergency gear" consists of. Many people carry next to nothing others carry the kitchen sink. The one thing I ask myself if I'm going to be any further than a short walk from "civilization" is what would I need to survive an unplanned night out without too much discomfort. I by no means think that I'll be enjoying myself but I do want to have enough that I don't end up with frostbite! In that vane, here's what I may be carrying at any given time.
Food: A bit of chocolate & a few hard candies. I'm not looking to chow down I'm simply trying to have a little something to keep my metabolism up if I end up out for longer than expected.

Extra Clothes: Just enough to ensure that I will not freeze if forced to spend the night out. Many people carry a sleeping bag and/or a tent for this purpose. There are pros and cons of both techniques. By carrying a down jacket, a pair of fleece pants and some extra socks in a waterproof bag I know that even if everything else gets wet I still have some dry clothes to keep me warm for the night. The advantage of this system is that they can be used at any time, not only for an emergency bivouac. If it just turns out to be colder than planned I have that extra clothing. The down side to this technique and the best reason for opting to go the sleeping bag route is that in the case of an injury or if I were mildly hypothermic it would be extremely difficult to strip off my wet clothes and get into dry ones. Where as it would be comparatively simple to pull out the sleeping bag and climb inside of it.

Shelter: If you're out in winter you really should have some means of shelter if you're forced to spend the night. Some people carry a tent, yes even on day hikes. Personally I carry a bivy sack. The idea is to be prepared for whatever may happen.

Fire Starter: Sadly, starting a fire is becoming a lost art and it certainly can not be counted on as a possibility in all circumstances but in some situations it could literally be a life saver! I carry some water/wind proof matches, a small "Bic" lighter, a small piece of candle and a piece of "fire starter" that can be purchased at most good outdoor stores. It's also important to get some practice in using these items.

Repair Kit: It needn't be terribly extensive but it's a good idea to be able to make basic gear repairs while in the field.

Duct Tape: I have a couple of yards wrapped around the top of my trekking poles.

Cable Ties: These are the handiest little items imaginable for repairing everything from a broken snowshoe to building a basic splint

Cord: I carry about 20 feet of nylon cord, again handy for many purposes.
Safety Pins: 3 or 4 of assorted sizes

Emergency Blanket: I prefer something a bit more sturdy than the conventional emergency blanket. For about $20.00 you can purchase one that is designed like a sleeping bag with a Velcro "zipper" that even has a sort of lining. Much more rugged and much less likely to blow away than the more basic ones.

Chemical Heat Packs: These little things are amazing. They are simply a small packet of chemicals that produce heat when opened. They come in various sizes that can be inserted into your mittens to warm your fingers or your boots to warm your toes. If forced to spend the night out somewhere they may make the difference on whether or not fingers or toes get frost bitten.

Large Trash Bag: These can be used for a multitude of purposes including; Pack Cover, Rain Coat, Bivy Sack, Water Collection Aid

Cell Phone: Yep, that's right, I put it as the last item of emergency gear because that's where I believe it should be. Hiking, especially in winter should be a sport of self reliance. You should be prepared to take care of yourself no matter what happens! I generally do not carry a phone but if you do decide to carry one, please be advised that your chances of getting a signal in the mountains is 50/50 at best. So again, be prepared and I the way I figure it, if I need to be prepared to take care of myself if the phone doesn't work, why even carry it?

Head Lamp: Any type of flashlight will do the trick but a headlamp is so much simpler to use and it allows you to keep your hands free that it's my choice. I also carry a spare bulb and spare batteries. In winter you'll find that lithium batteries will last much longer in the cold and it's a good idea to keep any batteries in your pocket to keep them warm. For that reason there are headlamps designed specifically for winter that have the batteries in a unit that attaches somewhere under your jacket and has a wire that leads to the light itself. That way the batteries are kept warmer at all times.

 

Winter Hike To Mt.LeConte via Rainbow Falls

  The trail begins at the southwest corner of the parking lot. For the first two-thirds of a mile you'll climb steadily over a boulder-strewn pathway, while LeConte Creek cascades down the mountain on your right. There are many opportunities for some great picnic sites along this section of the trail.
The trail crosses over two footbridges, one at 1.7 miles, and the other at 2.4 miles, before reaching the 80-foot high waterfalls at 2.7 miles. Rainbow Falls is the highest single-drop waterfall in the Smokies. It receives its name from the rainbow that's produced by mist and becomes visible on sunny afternoons. During extended winter cold spells, an impressive ice formation builds around the falls. You may notice a little bit of ice just to the right of the falls in the picture on the left.
To continue on to Mt. LeConte, cross the footbridge at Rainbow Falls. Over the next 3.2 miles you'll climb more than 1700 feet before reaching the Bullhead Trail junction. This section of trail will take you past rhododendron, sand myrtle and mountain laurel that offer hikers beautiful mountain blooms during the spring.
At 5.4 miles, you'll arrive at a side trail, which loops back to the main trail after a short distance. The loop leads to Rocky Spur, an outcropping of rocks that offers nice views of the valley below.
At just under 6 miles from the trailhead you'll reach the Bullhead Trail junction. Turn left to continue on to the summit of Mount LeConte.
In another 0.4 miles you'll reach the Alum Cave Trail, which forks in from the right. At this point you'll have your first views of the LeConte Lodge.

Hike to Mt.LeConte via Rainbow Falls 11-06-10

Hiking through the snow on Rainbow Falls Trail

Very slick log bridge on way to Mt.LeConte via Rainbow Falls

Rainbow Falls in the beautiful snow

Hiking through 8 inches of snow on the way to Mt.LeConte

Trail on the way to Mt.LeConte

Rainbow Falls and Alum Cave Trail Junction

Almost at the Lodge of Mt.LeConte

Steps going down to the lodge and kitchen of Mt.LeConte

Winter Hike To Mt.LeConte